During the early 1870s the New York and Canada Railroad commenced construction of a rail line along the western shore of Lake Champlain connecting Whitehall and Plattsburgh. Portions of the new line were relatively easy as the terrain was manageable, but other sections proved a challenge. The biggest test would prove to be along Willsboro Bay, requiring both a tunnel and extensive blasting.
For the local population the railroad sponsored an excursion from Plattsburgh to survey the construction from the waters.
Both the Plattsburgh Republican and the Plattsburgh Sentinel sent reporters to go on the cruise. Both papers reported about the trip in great detail.
What follows is an abridged merger of the experiences.
The sections in regular type is from the Plattsburgh Sentinel. The Plattsburgh Republican is in italics.
The headers are all courtesy of the papers.
The historical importance of this excursion is the detail that goes into the construction. As you read it, realize all this building was accomplished without modern technology; simple machinery and plenty of muscle prevailed.
Map illustrating the route of the railroad in northern Essex County
Plattsburgh Visits the Big Tunnel, Red Rock Cut, and other Great Wonders on the New York & Canada Railroad.
Last Friday afternoon, (July 9, 1875) at 2 o’clock, about one hundred citizens of Plattsburgh took the steamer A. Williams, for a free ride to Willsborough Bay, the location of the famous Red Rock Cut, the Great Tunnel, and other wonderful scenery on the line of the New York and Canada Railroad.
Steamboat A. Williams which carried the passengers.
All classes and professions were represented in that crowd: Merchants, Clergymen, Physicians, Bankers, Members of Congress, Lawyers, Judges and candidates for Judgeships. All grades of wisdom and forethought were also represented. Some with light gossamer suits, low shoes, white socks and frail hats; and others with good substantial footwear, extra overcoats and umbrellas.
The birth-place of the coming storm was away in the heart of the Adirondacks, in the centre of which old Marcy’s massive dome looms up, plainly visible from Cumberland Bay, but by the time that boat had got past Bluff Point a broad curtain of white mist the edges of which were sharply defined, was sweeping down the Ausable Valley, while another detachment went across Whiteface and Mt. Lyon, and bore down upon lake further to the northward. Suddenly the wind died away, but only for a moment, when the storm seemed to strike the lake with a single leap, to the accompaniment of a terrible peal of thunder, throwing the water into a white spray near the shore, and at the next instant coming in contact with the boat with a well defined shock, which rolled it well over to leeward, and snapping the splendid flag—which was flying at the stern—off in a second, breaking the stout line and landing the flag in the water. In a few moments the storm had passed across the lake to the southward, where it met the one which had gone around into the north, and at the east, on the broad curtain of cloud which extended along over the crest of the Green Mountains, was witnessed for some ten minutes a grand display of lightning, so vivid that it fairly dazzled the eyes in the broad daylight. But in a short time, that was another marked charge; the wind died away, the sun came out, and no reminder was left of the terrible storm, but the muttering of the thunder as it died away in the east, perhaps over the summit of Mt. Washington.
ONE THOUSAND TONS OF RAILS
Are already landed, and 30,000 ties—sufficient to build ten miles of road.
THE PORT KENT DEPOT,
Was the first object of especial interest, which is at the mouth of the deep ravine just south of the plank road at the foot of the hill. The deep fill over the ravine, and the culvert are being widened a hundred feet or more, and on the new made ground a handsome depot, 140 feet in length and otherwise in proportion, will be built.
The road from Port Kent to Port Douglass follows the shore of the lake at an average height of perhaps forty feet, around the base of Trembleau mountain. There is some rock cutting, on ordinary routes that would be considered heavy, and there are several fills, which in magnitude and sharpness would compare well with anything on the line of the Ogdensburg Road. But these only served to prepare our minds for greater sights. The prospect around the mountain is very fine. Our army did not move in solid phalanx, but divided in squads, scattered over an extent of a mile or more, which continued to widen, as we approached the end of our journey.
The track curves around the basin in which Port Douglass lies, a considerable distance back from shore, in order to keep upon the grade without filling, and presently approaches a stream—Buttermilk creek—by a cut fifty feet deep, and across a gorge which the stream has made, over a
FILL FOUR HUNDRED FEET LONG, AND SEVENTY FEET DEEP
the culvert being a massive and beautiful piece of arched masonry, twelve feet high in the clear. This is the largest fill on the whole line. About half a mile up the stream are Buttermilk Falls, 200 feet in height. This stream is the outlet of a small pond some distance back in the mountains.
PORT DOUGLASS,
which is a picturesque spot, and was once a port of no small importance. For many years it was the shipping port of one of the largest manufacturing in the northern part of the State, the Peru Iron Company, and the store house now standing at the wharf was constructed by them over 60 years ago. It was also a great shipping point for lumber in early days. It will be seen that Keeseville, Port Kent and Port Douglass are about equi-distant, forming an equilateral triangle, with Lake Champlain for the base. Among the relics of the former glory of Port Douglass is what was once a stately hotel, with heavy pillars in front, and other marks of architectural significance. But it now looks much like the Deacon’s one horse slay. It is a “fashionable resort” this season, however, being used as railroad boarding house, with sixty or more occupants.
THE “BIG FILL!”
The object of especial interest at Port Douglass was the immense fill across the deep gorge just south of the landing. It is 600 feet long and 80 feet deep, pierced at the bottom by a culvert 960 feet long, 9 by 12 feet square, with smooth, hard bottom, which can be used for driving through with loaded teams. Directly north is a deep sand cut, from which the earth was obtained for the big fill.
WILLSBORO POINT
--a bold, rocky headland at the left, covered with a beautiful grove—is reached, the shore on the right is a bald, precipitous ledge. The entrance to Willsboro Bay—formerly called Perou Bay—is very narrow; soon the track approaches the shore, which it does not leave again until it reaches the head of the Bay; the bluffs at the right get higher and higher; here is
ONE CONTINUOUS LEDGE,
Drawing of train along Red Rocks
The track running a good share of the way through thorough cuts, and then coming out in sight again along deep side cuts. About 7 miles from Port Douglass we come to Higby’s, where we catch a glimpse of a considerable stream, which dashes down into the lake through a rocky gorge with
PERPENDICULAR BANKS 100 FEET HIGH, AND STANDING 100 FEET APART.
This stream is the outlet of Long Pond, some two miles back in the narrow valley between the mountains, and Warm Pond, half a mile nearer the lake. Here, in the deep gorge, can be seen the remains of an old sawmill, and farther up the valley are relics of several forges erected more than fifty years ago. Passing still farther to the southward, the rocks presently become more precipitous,
The original span across Higby Creek is still in use.
THE BIG TUNNEL.
For two miles distant on the bay can be seen the opening of the big tunnel, which is near the head of the bay. It is 640 feet long, 21 feet high and 17 feet wide, and runs under a depth of 130 feet of rock. Adjoining the tunnel on the south is the famous
RED ROCK CUT,
Concerning which so many marvelous stories have been told. But none were exaggerations. Here it is that operations were first commenced by suspending a man over the ledge by a rope that he might drill and put in the first blast, and thus grain a foot hold! The perpendicular walls rose nearly 200 feet above the water. They are cut down about 100 feet so that the track runs almost midway of the summit and the lake. The rocks appear to be as precipitous below the water as above, Mr. Driesbach having sounded 140 feet near the shore
A careful estimate is made by several practical men of the party, who report all the way from forty to fifty feet. Presently the boat swings around a bluff and up to the rocky shore south of the tunnel, a narrow plank is run out, and soon afterwards the party are clambering up the rocky steep bank, and gain the track in full view of the south end of the tunnel, an arched opening into a rock of crystal about 100 feet high. To the south is the red rock cut, and presently the party stand upon the grade there, at the base of a
PERPENDICULAR WALL OF ROCK, 105 FEET IN HEIGHT,
While just over the ledge they look down upon the surface of the bay.
91 FEET BELOW.
All see the magnitude of the enterprise now, which has constructed a railroad along this rocky bluff, which extends in one almost unbroken range for seven years. The red rock cut strikes the beholder as the greatest wonder of all, but it was far from being the most difficult portion of the line. Still farther south it is a
CONTINUAL SUCCESSION OF ROCK CUTS AND ROCK FILLS,
which in many places had to be supported by solid walls of masonry from ten to thirty feet high, while to the northward are some of the heaviest thorough cuts on the whole line.
19th Century view of Red Rocks cut.
Same view, 1960s.
HOW SOON WILL IT BE COMPLETED?
It is estimated that 2,500 men are now engaged at different points on the line, and that in six weeks it will be ready for the iron the entire length.
TRACK LAYING.
Track laying will commence in four places in about three weeks; at Plattsburgh, Port Kent, Port Douglass, and four miles south of Port Henry. We observed large quantities of rails at Port Douglass, and all were impressed with their superior quality. They are unusually long, nearly thirty feet we should think, and weight 62 ½ lbs. to the yard, whereas 56 lbs. is the usual weight. This will be coupled with the Fish joint, which bolts the ends together and makes a continuous rail. Engine and construction cars will be landed at Port Kent and Port Douglass, to be used laying the track.
BALLASTING.
This is the last work to complete a railroad—a sort of finishing touch. After the ties and rails are laid over a given distance, large quantities of coarse sand or gravel, are drawn on. With this, the track is raised and leveled up. Where there is a good earth foundation little ballast is necessary, but over the rock work it is from twelve to eighteen inches deep.
It is believed that everything will be in running order from Whitehall to Plattsburgh by the first of October.
There are no sharp curves on the whole line and the grade does not at any point exceed 30 feet to the mile.
AMTRAK's Adirondack proceeding northbound over Higby Creek in 2023.
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